The cosmetic’s aisles are full of products claiming to erase wrinkles, return elasticity and bring back that youthful glow to your skin. Miracle creams do not exist, but there are products on the market that contain ingredients proven to help reduce the signs of aging. According to the Mayo Clinic, the effectiveness of anti-aging creams depends upon the active ingredients.
Wrinkle Reducers
Vitamin C stimulates collagen biosynthesis helping to plump skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C also helps protect the skin against damage from the sun. A study headed by N. Boyera published in the June 1998 issue of the “International Journal of Cosmetic Science” found vitamin C to increase collagen biosynthesis and strengthen the collagen network. They concluded that vitamin C was an effective pro vitamin for skin.
Retinol, which is a vitamin A compound, is an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles, notes the Mayo Clinic. Coenzyme Q10, copper peptides and kinetin are other face cream ingredients that help minimize fine lines and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Exfoliators
Exfoliators are substances that remove the upper layer of skin. Removing the dead skin cells helps to stimulate cell turnover, revealing smoother skin. Alpha hydroxy acids, also called AHAs, poly hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids are used in low doses in anti-aging creams. (Reference 3) AHAs increase sun sensitivity for up to one week after use. Always wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen while using products containing AHAs.
Moisturizers
Ingredients that moisturize the skin plump fine lines giving the skin a more youthful look, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Humectants and emollients protect the skin’s moisture barrier. Moisturizing ingredients include urea, ceramide, L-lactic acid, stearic, linoleic, oleic and lauric.
Skin Lighteners
As skin ages, changes in pigmentation can occur. Lemon extract, mulberry, licorice, bearberry, niacinamide, kojic acid and arbutin are all proven natural whitening agents, according to a study headed by Nico Smit published in the December 2009 issue of the “International Journal of Molecular Sciences.” Natural skin lighteners whiten skin by interference with the pigmentary processes.
Prescription Ingredients
Prescription face cream ingredients include topical tretinoin, a vitamin A derivative used for treating wrinkles, hydroquinone, used as a bleaching agent and azelaic acid used as a natural whitening agent.
Sunscreen
Sunscreen is a wrinkle preventive. It is one of the best anti-aging ingredients because it prevents photodamage that can cause wrinkles and pigmentation changes. Damage from sun exposure is the largest contributor to wrinkles and other signs of aging, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. The AAD recommends using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher daily, even in the winter months.
Resources:
- "International Journal of Cosmetic Science" (accessed on December 27, 2010)
- Mayo Clinic: Wrinkle Creams (accessed on December 27, 2010)
- American Academy of Dermatology: The Sun and Your Skin (accessed on December 27, 2010)
- "American Journal of Clinical Dermatology" (accessed on December 27, 2010)